Please order online. It will save both you and I, time and energy. (I’m chronically behind answering emails and paid orders always get the highest priority.) If I have a question, I will reach out to you via email or phone to ensure you are receiving the right product.
If one of our cables doesn’t meet your expectations, we’ll replace it free of charge (excluding shipping) for one (1) year from the purchase date. If I made the cable too short, or with the wrong ends or wrong gauge, etc., I will replace it promptly, at no charge, including shipping. However, if you asked for the wrong length and I provided exactly what you ordered, then see my exchange policy above. Liability is limited ONLY to the cable. Misuse or improper installation is beyond my control and I cannot be held responsible.
Sure. I’ll exchange it for a cable that will work for you. If it’s a “standard” product that we can sell to someone else, you will just pay the return postage. However, if it’s a custom-made cable, there will be a 30% restocking fee. Why so high? Because the cable will sit on the shelf while we hope someone else wants it…..or we decide to recycle it for scrap copper.
Yes! We take credit cards. You can place your order on the online store, or we can take your order over the phone and send you the order receipt through our store. In general, please be aware of PayPal scams.
We currently have several commercial customers and we’d be honored to be the OEM battery cable supplier to your company. Email me your requirements and I’ll send you a bid. (Minimum quantities apply.)
I usually ship using USPS Priority Mail flat box rate. If it is a large or especially heavy package, I might use UPS.
Standard lead time on a parts only order is 0-2 days (except special orders). Lead time on our “standard” products is 2-5 business days. We often have those on the shelf, ready to go; if we don’t we want five (5) days to build them. Custom orders can take up to seven (7) business days. The option for a “Rush Order” is available. [product_line id=”240″]
Yes, we have a store at 2288 S Idaho Rd Apache Junction, AZ It’s just north of Southern Ave on the west side of Idaho Road. We don’t have a sign up yet. we’re in between the dentist and the job center.
Ends are crimped. The manufacturer of the ends recommends crimping. Cables are crimped using a 12-ton hydraulic crimper. It squeezes the cable so tightly there are no air gaps or spaces (I’ve seen the pictures of cross sections). Soldering is tough on the insulation and the solder wicks up the wire destroying the flexibility. Soldering also requires flux, hazardous lead solder and solvents (for cleaning the flux). The extra cleaning step adds cost and environmental issues I don’t want to deal with. Besides the ends are crimped so tightly that there is no room for the solder. So, soldering presents a lot of problems for little or no reward. As a small business, I don’t want to deal with chemicals and all the problems they cause. I’d contend that the crimped connections are so tight that they have lower resistance than soldered terminals… what’s the resistance of solder versus the resistance of copper wire?
Besides the color, the difference is the size of the battery post. Positive posts are slightly bigger (larger diameter) than the negative posts. That’s why those cheap “universal” battery terminals never fit quite right. They’re too small for the positive post and too big for the negative.
If you tell me how long it needs to be, then I’d be happy to make you one. However, at this time I don’t have any way to look up how long of a cable a specific application uses. Unfortunate but true. If you know where I can look this info up, or have a book which shows it, please let me know.
Six Volt systems take twice as much current to do the same work as 12V systems (Power = Voltage x Current). The battery cables should be sized to handle that increased current. I’d use 2/0. You can’t go wrong with that and it does not cost much more than 1/0. I would not go any smaller than 1/0.
We have the 2-hole in-line connector to replace the factory connector used on some YJ wranglers. We don’t have the 2 hole connector used on some TJ models however two 90-degree lugs placed side-by-side works just fine. Please see our Wrangler page.
I have some “double barrel” lugs that work as those middle-of-the-cable chassis ground terminals. They only come in limited sizes. Alternatively, you could get a ground cable with an extra wire that goes to the chassis ground. In other words, if the middle-of-the-cable chassis ground is 15 inches down the cable, get a ground cable with a 15 inch aux lead that goes to the chassis ground.