How are Custombatterycables.com cables different than “regular” parts store cables?
Our cables are built to be of the highest quality and to last a lifetime. Here’s how we do it:
First, we use bigger and better wire. The cables are custom made to your specified length out of SAE SGT, SGX or Marine cable. The car companies are struggling to keep the weight and cost down so they skimp by using the smallest wire that will do the job. We think that a better cable will help the car start in extreme conditions or when the starter or battery are getting weak. Therefore, we build them thicker and heavier than the cheap stuff used by the factory or local parts store cables. (We can also make small cables to match factory stock on request for customers who want accurate restorations). Note the size difference between the parts store cable and the 2/0 gauge CustomBatteryCables cable.
Secondly, we use best quality terminals and ends: We use high quality tinned cast copper battery terminals with anti-corrosion bolts, quality standard lugs or plated heavy duty lugs. The cast copper ends have lower resistance and don’t melt when they get very hot like the cheap lead ones. Even our standard ends are much more substantial then the cheap auto store cables. I have tried several different suppliers for our terminals and spend a little more to get terminals that are better made and look better than the competition. I believe that we use the best terminals available.
Third, We crimp them really well: Yup. we crimp the hell out ’em. Here’s why: Poor mechanical connections make lousy electrical connections. To get a great electrical connection you must have a great mechanical connections. It’s simple really. To make sure we get a great mechanical connection we use a professional 12 ton hydraulic crimpers. (we have two in case of down time).
Fourth and finally, We seal the ends. Once the cables are crimped together we seal the ends with thick wall, adhesive lined, heat shrink tubing. The adhesive on the heat shrink is similar to hot glue. It flows into and gaps, insulating and protecting the cable from corrosion.
Check out the gap between the insulation and terminal on the cheap cable! (The red circle in the picture below.) How many cables have you thrown away due to corrosion where the cables meets the end? The heat shrink helps prevents that.
I’ll also add additional ï¿½auxiliaryï¿½ wires coming out of either the battery end, the ring connector end or both.
For example, here’s a cable with a 4 gauge auxiliary wire. The auxiliary wires are typically used for body ground, fuse block or alternator.
I then add a optional terminal cover to help prevent accidental shorts.
The heavy cable and copper ends reduce resistance and voltage drop, providing more power to the starter. It will often help your car or truck crank easier especially if you have a big block in that muscle car, hot rod or truck. It might cure that hot hard starting problem.
Which cable do you want on your vehicle?